Kitchen Diary:Autumn


September has arrived announcing itself initially with torrential rain & flash flooding, but as the week progresses we have a final burst of summer to look forward to with temperatures set to climb to  the mid 20’s. It’s my favourite time of year in the kitchen, with the summers bounty about to be realised, there is an abundance of top quality home grown produce on offer & the kitchen is hive of activity. 


A quick stride up the road & into the Neath market hall, Mark Reynolds fruit & vegetable store is bursting at the seams, he sees me coming & never one to miss a sale he guides me towards the purple Romanesco, which are of top quality & are British new season, part Broccoli, part Cauliflower it is a delicious brassica. But I have my eye on the Cavalo Nero and the new season ornamental squash, the ugly tomatoes look fantastic too. Victoria Plums are in abundance perfectly ripe & ready to eat now, none of this ripen at home nonsense you get from supermarkets! I have a plum frangipane Dartois planned for them; layered up laminated puff pastry with almond sponge, served warm is delicious, simple & singing of the season. Damsons are ready now too but are not so easy to get hold of, Mark is on the case & should have them by the weekend. Yellow Chanterelle mushrooms are now available and feature in a couple of dishes on the menu now. My favourite dish at the moment is the Pan Seared Chicken Supreme with my home cured Coppa, fresh Chantrelle mushrooms, fresh egg Taggliatelle finished with Black Truffle & Parmigiano Reggiano it has all the earthy woodland flavours of Autumn.


A quick dart across the market to RG John fish mongers to see what’s available on the fax direct from the wholesale markets in the morning, so I can start to plan my daily specials, as I stride towards the stall Ricky is already smiling, pointing towards the counter Mark stops filleting & they say together in chorus “Just in”, a big gleaming pile of spankingly fresh shiny eyed Wild Local Sea Bass awaits. I walk behind the counter pick one up, they’re immaculate “How much?” I say as Ricky starts tapping the calculator, “For you” he says… The deal is done I take the lot, Mark gets to work gutting, scaling & filleting they’ll be on the menu within hours of being caught. They’ll go for my signature dish; Pan Seared Wild Sea Bass with King Scallops crushed new potatoes & Welsh Cider & Leek Sauce. There’s more good news to come with 6 local lobsters arriving the following morning I have first dibs & they’re on the menu the following evening.


Andy heads up the kitchen of Moruzzi & Co in Neath,  with his team they create tasty wholesome dishes with a modern rustic flair, they pay homage to the Italian heritage of the owners. Andy having just returned from his second trip to Italy has come back with a wealth of knowledge & enthusiasm, and with the owner Paul Moruzzi having just returned from Italy with a boot load of Italian ingredients, including some stunning Porcini mushrooms, they have some great dishes planned for this new season….

At their best
Discovery Apples

British Sweetcorn

British Plums 

Damsons

Cobnuts

Bramley Apples

Chantenay Carrots

Chanterelle mushrooms 

Romanesco 

Local Tomatoes 

 Coming up
Squash

Pumpkins

Conference Pears

Quinces

Cox Apples

Russet Apples

Chestnuts

Moruzzi & Co

Croft Road 

Neath

01639 639682
 

Published by fullerflavour

Andrew Addis-Fuller: I have been a chef working in the industry for the past 24 years. In this time I have had the privledge to work alongside some very talented people and learn from them. I was a pastry chef at Langoed Hall when they gained their first Michelin star, spent time in the kitchen of the 3 Michelin star chef Michel Bras at his restaurant in Laguiole, France. I have represented my native Wales in international culinary competitions at home and in France. I am a member of the Culinary Association Wales and an associate member of the Welsh Culinary Team, I mentor young chefs for competition cooking. My food has seen praise from top food critics including a favourable write up by the late Michal Winner in his Sunday Times column Winner's Dinners. He said my food was "Historic, and as good a meal as I've ever eaten". In 2004 I completed my teaching degree and started my business Fuller Flavour. The company of Fuller Flavour has its own manufacturing element to the business, providing products to caterers, including cold cutting pies, pates and terrines, bespoke desserts and pastries. At Fuller Flavour we are now involved with food consultancy & training, product development and the professional training of chefs. Above all Fuller Flavour is about being passionate about good food and how it is produced. I encourage businesses to shop local and seasonally which is reflected in all my menus. I put a real emphasis on creating added value and sense of place, I train all my chefs in this way. I'm interested in regional food history and cultural practices and I've spent the past 5 years developing cured meat products & recipes, for a new venture. I am Head Chef at The Penycae Inn working with Anthony Christopher helping to develop his business.

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